Rolex Submariner, the diving watch that became a style icon

When the word luxury watch comes up, most people think first of the Submariner. That is no accident. Over decades this diving watch has etched itself so deeply into the collective image that it has become the idea of a good watch as such. In the atelier it is correspondingly often the first word and sometimes also the last. This guide sorts the variants, explains the famous nicknames and shows what we look at on a used piece.

The watch that defined the diving watch

The Submariner appeared in 1953 and belongs to the watches that shaped the whole genre of the diving watch. A rotating bezel for monitoring dive time, high legibility in the dark, a robust, water-resistant Oyster case. What began as a tool for diving became, through films, adventures and decades of wear, a style icon. The basic idea never changed in the process. A Submariner of today is the direct descendant of the first, only refined in every respect.

Date or no-date, the first decision

The most important choice on the modern Submariner is the one between date and no date. The 124060 is the no-date. Black dial, black bezel, no Cyclops lens, a perfectly symmetrical picture. Anyone who values purity in design buys this one. Helmut, our master watchmaker, likes to call it the most honest Submariner, because the dial is not optically distorted by the lens.

The 126610LN is the Submariner Date in black, identical in case and character but with date and Cyclops lens. It is the best-selling modern sports watch of the brand and for many the standard Submariner. The 126610LV carries a green bezel against the black dial and is the more colourful sister. In the atelier we often see the green version as a second Submariner, bought by someone who already knows the black one and is looking for something with stronger character.

The ceramic era

Today's Submariner carries a bezel in Cerachrom, that is, in ceramic. This replaced the earlier aluminium inlays and brought a great practical advantage. Ceramic does not fade in the sun and is nearly scratch-proof. A modern Submariner still looks like the first day at the bezel after years of wear, while older aluminium bezels fade over time. Anyone who values a flawless appearance over many years is well served by the ceramic generation. Anyone who likes the patina of ageing finds it rather among the older references. More on the Cerachrom bezel is in our glossary.

The lexicon of nicknames

Hardly any watch family has as many nicknames as the Submariner, and they are genuine collector culture. It is worth knowing them, because they are used as a matter of course in conversation and on the market.

The Hulk is the 116610LV, built from 2010 to 2020, with a green dial and green bezel. A strong, very individual presence that still has many fans today. The Kermit is the 16610LV from 2003, issued for the fiftieth anniversary of the Submariner, with a green bezel and black dial. The current green Submariner, the 126610LV, deliberately returns to this combination. The Smurf is the Submariner in white gold with a blue dial and blue bezel, the warmest and most exclusive reading. These names are no quirk but a quick language among connoisseurs.

Size, movement and water resistance

Since the 2020 generation the Submariner measures 41 millimetres instead of the earlier 40. The change is discreet on the wrist, and thanks to the reworked lugs the case even looks slimmer than on its predecessors. The watch is water-resistant to 300 metres and has the Glidelock extension in the clasp, with which the bracelet can be finely adjusted, even over a neoprene sleeve. The no-date runs the calibre 3230, the date the 3235 with date, both with around 70 hours of power reserve. These are modern, durable movements that rarely cause concern in the workshop.

How the Submariner wears

The Submariner is the watch that goes along with everything. Suit, beach, workshop, restaurant. That is its real strength. It is robust enough not to be spared, and elegant enough not to stand out when it should not. At 41 millimetres it sits in balance on most wrists, neither dainty nor bulky. Anyone looking for a single watch for everything will struggle to get past the Submariner. That very versatility explains its high and stable demand.

Submariner against Sea-Dweller and Deepsea

The Submariner has two larger siblings that carry the same basic idea further. The Sea-Dweller is designed for greater depths and accordingly built more strongly, traditionally with a helium valve that plays a role in professional saturation diving. The Deepsea goes a step further and is the most uncompromising diving watch of the brand, distinctly more massive and heavier on the wrist. For the great majority of wearers the Submariner is nevertheless the right choice, because it offers the most balanced size and the most familiar picture. The Sea-Dweller and the Deepsea appeal to those who deliberately want more watch and more technical reserve, even if they never push that reserve in everyday use. Anyone toying with the thought of a larger diving watch should compare both on the wrist once, because the difference in practice is greater than on paper. More on the Sea-Dweller is in our glossary.

Which Submariner for whom

Anyone looking for a single, purest possible watch is best served by the no-date 124060, because its symmetrical dial without a date reads timeless and calm. Anyone who values the practical use of the date reaches for the 126610LN in black, the most versatile and most-bought version. Anyone who wants character and colour finds both in the green 126610LV, which is distinctly more eye-catching in everyday use without being loud. And anyone seeking the special and willing to go into precious metal looks to the white gold Submariner with the blue dial, the warmest and most exclusive reading. In every case the rule is that the Submariner can be a watch for life, because it is neither fashionable nor fragile and loses hardly any of its effect over the years.

The Submariner in everyday use and in the workshop

The Submariner is built for a long life. A modern movement like the 3230 or the 3235 runs reliably for years and needs an overhaul only at longer intervals. What matters is to have the water resistance checked after a service, especially if the watch is actually going near water, because seals age. Helmut regularly sees Submariners in the workshop that still do their duty reliably after decades, often with a beautiful patina on dial and hands that many collectors today deliberately seek. What an overhaul costs and when it makes sense our article Rolex overhaul costs places. A cared-for, regularly serviced Submariner is in the end not only the more reliable but also the more value-stable watch.

The fascination of the vintage Submariner

Beside the modern ceramic models there is a field all of its own that makes many collector hearts beat faster, the vintage Submariner. Older references like the 5513 without a date, the 1680 as the first Submariner with a date, or the long-lived 16610 stand for earlier eras with acrylic crystal, narrower cases and aluminium bezels. These aluminium bezels and the dials in particular age in an appealing way. Some fade towards brown, which collectors call tropical and partly value more highly than the flawless condition. An honest patina tells the story of a watch that has been worn. Anyone stepping into this field, however, needs more knowledge than when buying new, because originality decides very large differences in value here and parts have often been swapped over the decades. In the atelier we are glad to place such pieces before a decision is made. The vintage Submariner is no casual entry, but for many the real appeal of the family.

What to look for when buying a used Submariner

On a used Submariner a checking look at a few points is worthwhile. Check the bezel inlay for cracks and colour fidelity and check whether the Cyclops magnification on the date version is centred. The Glidelock notching should engage precisely, the luminous material across all indices appear even. Because the Submariner is one of the most counterfeited watches in existence, a look at our guide to spotting Submariner fakes is worthwhile before purchase. Completeness with box and papers raises value and liquidity noticeably.

Submariner or GMT-Master II

Many who lean towards the Submariner waver at the same time with the GMT-Master II, because both build on the same case. The Submariner is the purist diving watch, the GMT the more travel-capable version with a second time zone and a striking colour bezel. Which suits you better we go into in the direct comparison Submariner against GMT-Master II. Anyone searching more fundamentally will find orientation in which Rolex to buy.

Frequent questions about the Submariner

Date or no-date? The no-date reads calmer and more purist thanks to its symmetrical dial, the date is more practical for everyday use. Both share case and character, the choice is a matter of taste.

How large is the current Submariner? Since 2020 it measures 41 millimetres. Thanks to the reworked lugs it nevertheless wears slimmer than the number suggests.

Is the Submariner a good investment? It belongs to the models with stable demand, but anyone who sees it above all as an investment should read our sober article luxury watch as an investment. The best reason for a Submariner remains that you want to wear it.

Is it really suitable for diving? Yes, the Submariner is a full diving watch to 300 metres with a unidirectional rotating bezel. Most examples, however, never see deeper water than the basin, and that too is perfectly fine.

The Submariner at Time Boutique

In our atelier in Munich the Submariner is the watch that crosses the table most often, from the modern ceramic model to the older references with character. We inspect every piece carefully and advise honestly on which version suits you. You will find an overview of our current stock in our Rolex selection. Anyone wishing to part with a Submariner reads in selling a Rolex how a fair purchase works with us. Appointments in Munich are by arrangement, in person and without haste.