Rolex Datejust, the reference against which all others are measured

When someone enters the atelier with the line, I want a proper Rolex, but nothing loud, we almost always end up at the same watch. The Datejust is the Rolex that defined what a Rolex looks like. It is not a piece of sports equipment and not a status symbol in the narrow sense, but the quiet centre of the brand. That is exactly what makes it perhaps the wisest first choice. This guide shows how to recognise a good Datejust and how to find the right one for you among the many variants.

The watch that defined what a Rolex looks like

The Datejust came onto the market in 1945, for the fortieth anniversary of Rolex. It was the first automatic wristwatch that showed the date in a window and changed it instantly at midnight. What sounds self-evident today was a small revolution at the time. At the same time Rolex introduced the Jubilee bracelet, designed specifically for this watch. Both together, the date in the window and the five-link bracelet, define the Datejust to this day.

In the decades that followed the basic idea stayed the same while the details matured. The Cyclops lens over the three was added in the early fifties and magnifies the date. The fluted bezel, originally a technical solution for screwing down the case, became a recognition mark. The Datejust is therefore a watch that did not need reinventing, because it was coherent from the start.

What makes the Datejust

Three decisions shape the face of every Datejust, and they are the real core of choosing the model.

The date and the Cyclops lens

The Cyclops lens magnifies the date two and a half times and sits centrally over the three. It is a matter of taste. Some appreciate the better legibility, others prefer the calmer look without the small lens. On the Datejust it belongs to the picture, unlike the no-date Submariner, which deliberately goes without it.

The bezel, smooth or fluted

The fluted bezel is the family's hallmark and at Rolex is always made of gold or white gold, even on an otherwise steel watch. It brings light and movement into play. The smooth, slightly domed bezel reads more restrained and more modern. Anyone who likes it plain chooses the smooth version, anyone seeking the classic Rolex presence the fluted one.

Jubilee or Oyster

The Jubilee bracelet with its five narrow links is the more elegant, more festive bracelet and the historical companion of the Datejust. The Oyster bracelet with its three broader links reads sportier and more robust. The same watch wears surprisingly differently on the two bracelets. In the atelier we like to put both on customers, because the decision falls faster on the wrist than in the description.

The sizes, from 28 to 41 millimetres

The Datejust covers an unusually wide span. The Lady-Datejust measures 28 millimetres and is the classic women's watch of the brand. The 31 millimetres are the middle size, popular on narrower wrists regardless of gender. The 36 millimetres are the historical original size and for many the perfect proportion, because it works on every wrist. The 41 millimetres are today's large version and appeal to all who want a more present watch. Anyone unsure rarely goes wrong with the 36, because it is the most balanced reading of the Datejust.

The important references today

In the current programme three sizes are primarily relevant. The Datejust 36 carries the reference 126200 and related configurations, depending on bezel, material and dial. The Datejust 41 runs under the 126300 and its relatives. The Lady-Datejust 28 belongs to the reference series 279000. Within these families there is an enormous variety of dials, from simple sunburst tones through the palm motif to diamond-set versions. This variety is part of the appeal. Hardly any other model can be tuned so precisely to a taste.

Steel, Rolesor or gold

The Datejust comes in Oystersteel, in the steel-gold combination that Rolex calls Rolesor, and in yellow, white and Everose gold. The steel version is the classic first watch, unpretentious and suited to everyday wear. Rolesor brings warmth into the picture with the gold bezel and the gold centre links, without going fully to precious metal. The solid gold versions are the most formal reading and appear distinctly more present. Unlike the sought-after sports models, the Datejust is well available in most configurations, which makes it one of the few Rolex watches you can buy without a long wait.

The movement

The 36 and the 41 run the in-house calibre 3235. It offers around 70 hours of power reserve and uses the Chronergy escapement, which Rolex has designed for better energy efficiency. From the workshop's point of view it is a modern, durable movement that services well. The Lady-Datejust 28 runs the smaller calibre 2236 with a silicon hairspring. Both movements carry the chronometer rating and are designed for all-day accuracy.

Which Datejust suits whom

The Datejust 36 in steel with Jubilee is the timeless first Rolex that works in any situation. The 41 appeals to anyone seeking a more modern, more present watch. Rolesor or gold suit those who deliberately want to wear something more festive. The Lady-Datejust 28 or the 31 are the obvious choice for narrower wrists. Anyone still wavering in principle between the Rolex families will find orientation in our comparison which Rolex to buy.

Recognising the Datejust generations

For buyers on the secondary market it is worth keeping the major generations apart, because they differ in movement and detail. The four-digit references stand for the older years with acrylic crystal and a narrower bezel, they are enthusiast territory with a charm of their own. The five-digit references brought sapphire crystal and reworked movements and are considered by many a robust everyday entry into the world close to vintage. The six-digit references, that is the 116200 series and the current 126200 series, stand for the modern manufacture calibres and today's finishing. A special role is played by the Datejust II, which Rolex introduced in 2009 at 41 millimetres and which was replaced in 2016 by the slimmer Datejust 41. Anyone buying an older Datejust should know which generation they are in, because that determines the expectations of movement, crystal and spare parts supply. When in doubt we place it for you in the atelier.

The dials, the real playing field

Nowhere at Rolex is the choice of dials as large as on the Datejust, and exactly here the character of the watch is often decided. From the calm sunburst in silver, champagne or anthracite through the finely embossed striped pattern to the lively palm motif, the span is wide. To this come versions with Roman numerals, with applied indices, with mother-of-pearl or with diamonds as hour markers. This variety is no accident but programme. The same Datejust 36 can be ordered as a sober dress watch or as a distinctly more talkative piece. In the atelier we advise not to underestimate the dial. It determines how loud or quiet the watch ultimately speaks, and it is the part you look at every day. A plain dial often ages more calmly, an unusual one makes the watch unmistakable.

How the Datejust wears

The Datejust is one of the few watches that genuinely work in several sizes. The 36 millimetres are the historical centre and wear in balance on narrow as on strong wrists. The 41 reads more modern and more present without ever being sporty. The 31 and the 28 sit more coherently on finer wrists. On the Jubilee bracelet the watch feels supple and festive, on the Oyster bracelet somewhat more matter-of-fact and robust. Because the case is flat, the Datejust slips effortlessly under a cuff, which makes it the discreet companion of the working day. It is the watch you put on in the morning and forget all day, in the best sense.

What to look for when buying a used Datejust

The good news first. Because the Datejust is available in many configurations, the market is more relaxed than with the sports models, and the premium over list price is smaller. Even so, a close look is worthwhile.

Check whether dial and hands are original and untouched, especially on older pieces. Pay attention to the condition of the bezel and to clean edges on the case, because over-intensive polishing wears the contours. Check the function of the quick-set date and the accuracy over a day. Completeness with box and papers raises resale here too, more on this in box and papers, how important are they really. Anyone wishing to read up on the whole process of a safe purchase will find it in the Rolex buying guide.

Frequent questions about the Datejust

Which Datejust size is the right one? For most the 36 is the most balanced choice, because it works on almost every wrist. Anyone who likes it more present reaches for the 41, anyone with a narrow wrist for the 31 or 28.

Jubilee or Oyster? The Jubilee is the classic, more elegant bracelet of the Datejust, the Oyster the more matter-of-fact and robust one. Both work, and the decision is best made on the wrist.

Does the Datejust hold its value? It is mostly well available and sits closer to list price than the sought-after sports models. It is therefore more a sensible long-term watch than an object of appreciation, which makes it not one bit less worth recommending. A placement on this comes in our article Rolex prices and value.

Is the Datejust a good first Rolex? Yes, for many it is the wisest first choice, because it is classic, suited to everyday wear and timeless in its basic form. It does not impose itself and suits almost any occasion.

The Datejust at Time Boutique

In our atelier in Munich the Datejust is the watch we advise on most often, because it serves so many tastes. We take our time, put on different sizes, bezels and bracelets, and say honestly what suits you. You will find an overview of our current stock in our Rolex selection. Anyone wishing to part with a Datejust reads in selling a Rolex how a fair purchase works with us. Appointments in Munich are by arrangement, in person and without haste.