Submariner
Rolex's divers' watch family, introduced in 1953. The most recognised tool watch in the world and the prototypical luxury sports watch.
At a glance
- Introduction
- 1953
- Current size
- 41 mm (since 2020)
- Water resistance
- 300 m
- Movement (date)
- calibre 3235
- Movement (no-date)
- calibre 3230
- Power reserve
- approximately 70 hours
- Bezel
- unidirectional, 60-minute scale, Cerachrom since 2010
- Crystal
- sapphire with anti-reflective coating
- Bracelet
- Oyster with Glidelock extension
- Current references
- 126610LN, 124060, 126610LV, 126613LB
The Submariner is Rolex's divers' watch family, introduced in 1953. It is the most recognised tool watch in the world and the prototypical luxury sports watch — among the first wristwatches certified to 100 m water resistance. Later generations reach 300 m.
Generations
- 1953–1959. Early references 6204, 6205, 6536. No crown guards, smaller cases.
- 1959–1989. References 5510, 5512, 5513, 1680. Crown guards introduced; the 1680 brought the date.
- 1988–2010. 16800, 16610. Modern proportions, sapphire crystal, unidirectional rotating bezel.
- 2010–2020. 116610LN (date), 114060 (no-date). Maxi-case, Cerachrom ceramic bezel.
- 2020–present. 126610LN (date), 124060 (no-date). 41 mm up from 40 mm, updated bracelet, calibres 3235 and 3230.
Variants
- No-date (124060, 14060M, 5513). Clean dial, traditional configuration.
- Date (126610LN, 16610, 1680). Cyclops magnifier over the date — see cyclops.
- Two-tone (Rolesor). Steel/yellow-gold combinations, e.g. 126613LB.
- Submariner LV "Hulk" (116610LV, 126610LV). Green bezel and green dial (2010–2020) or green bezel with black dial (2020–present, nicknamed "Starbucks").
- Submariner Date "Smurf" (116619LB). White gold, blue dial and bezel.
Vintage
Vintage Submariners are heavily collected. Specific dial configurations command meaningful premiums:
- Meters-first dials. Early 5513 with depth marked in metres before feet. The convention before the late 1960s.
- "Big Crown" references. 5512 and 5513 with the oversized crown.
- MilSub. 5513 / 5517 military issue — sword hands, fixed bars.
- "COMEX". Dials supplied to COMEX divers.
Current market
Current steel Submariners retail in the €9,000–€13,000 range. Secondary-market premiums vary by reference, generally trading around 1.5x retail for current production. Discontinued "Hulk" and "Smurf" references trade at a clear premium.
At our atelier in Munich we see every generation — from the vintage 5513 to the 126610LN. Speak to us if you are looking for a specific configuration or would like your Submariner serviced to factory standard.
Frequently asked
- Functionally the date window at 3 o'clock and the [cyclops](/en/glossar/cyclop) lens above it. Stylistically the No-Date is the purer reading with a symmetrical dial — favoured by collectors who see it as the continuation of vintage references such as the 5513. The movements differ as well: 3230 in the no-date, 3235 with date. Pricing sits close to one another; the No-Date traditionally has a slightly narrower buyer pool.