Question 1

What makes the Royal Oak so special and iconic?

Accepted Answer

The Royal Oak was absolutely revolutionary and provocative in 1972: a luxury watch in stainless steel (not gold!) that cost 3,750 CHF – more than gold chronographs of the time. The striking design with octagonal bezel, eight visible screws and integrated bracelet was a radical break with conventions. Designed by Gérald Genta in just one night. The tapisserie guilloche pattern is handcrafted. Today, the Royal Oak is one of the most coveted and valuable watches worldwide with enormous investment potential and status symbol. It is considered a milestone in watch history and defined the category of luxury sports watches.

Question 2

Which Royal Oak references exist and how do they differ?

Accepted Answer

The most important Royal Oak references: **5402** (original 1972, 39mm, caliber 2121, "Jumbo"), **15202** (modern reissue of the Jumbo, ultra-thin), **15400** (2012-2019, 41mm, thicker case), **15500** (from 2019, 41mm, new caliber 4302). The Jumbo models (39mm) are thinner, more elegant and more popular with purists. The 41mm models offer more wrist presence. Then theres the Royal Oak Offshore (42 up until 44mm, more robust, sportier) and Royal Oak Concept (futuristic, avant-garde). Chronograph variants exist in all sizes. Collectors often prefer the classic 3-hand models in 39mm for their elegance and original design,

Question 3

Why is the Royal Oak called "Jumbo"?

Accepted Answer

The nickname "Jumbo" is historically based and paradoxical today. The original Royal Oak ref. 5402 from 1972 had a 39mm diameter – HUGE for a watch back then (usual size: 34-36mm). Hence the name "Jumbo". Today, 39mm would be considered medium or even small (modern sports watches: 40-44mm). The modern reissue ref. 15202 is still called "Jumbo" even though it's actually smaller than the current 41mm Royal Oak. The name is tradition and homage to the original. What's special about the Jumbo: extra-thin case (8.1mm thick) thanks to the ultra-flat caliber 2121 (3.05mm). This elegance and reduction make the Jumbo timeless.

Question 4

Royal Oak vs Royal Oak Offshore – which is right for me?

Accepted Answer

The **Royal Oak** (39mm or 41mm) is more elegant, slimmer, more versatile – perfect for business, formal occasions and everyday wear. It embodies the original spirit of 1972: sporty-elegant. The **Royal Oak Offshore** (42-44mm) is larger, more robust, sportier, more masculine – perfect for a more casual, eye-catching style. It was introduced in 1993 and was initially controversial, now cult. Choice depends on: wrist size (Offshore too large for delicate wrists), style preference (elegant vs sporty), occasions (Royal Oak more versatile). Both are excellent investments. Tip: Try both sizes on – the wearing experience often decides.

Question 5

Which movement is in the Royal Oak?

Accepted Answer

Different calibers depending on model: **Caliber 2121** (in ref. 5402 and 15202 "Jumbo") – ultra-flat automatic movement (3.05mm), based on JLC 920, runs at 19,800 A/h, 36h power reserve. A masterpiece of flat construction. **Caliber 3120** (in ref. 15400) – more robust automatic movement, 21,600 A/h, 60h power reserve, 22k gold rotor. **Caliber 4302** (in ref. 15500, from 2019) – modern in-house caliber, 28,800 A/h (higher precision), 70h power reserve. **Chronograph caliber 2385/2403** – based on F. Piguet 1185, column wheel chronograph. All movements are hand-decorated with Côtes de Genève, perlage rotor and hand-beveled edges. AP movements are among the most beautiful in the industry.

Question 6

What is the Tapisserie pattern and how is it made?

Accepted Answer

The characteristic "Tapisserie" pattern (French for tapestry) on Royal Oak dials is a guilloche decoration with regular check pattern. It is embossed into the brass dial by a special guilloche machine – a complex manual process. The pattern captures light and creates a three-dimensional effect. There are different variants: **"Grande Tapisserie"** (coarse check pattern, most common), **"Petite Tapisserie"** (fine check pattern, e.g. on some Offshore models), **"Méga Tapisserie"** (extra-large pattern, e.g. Offshore End of Days). The Tapisserie pattern is a trademark of AP and makes each dial unique. The quality and precision of the pattern is an indicator of authenticity.

Cart

Your cart is empty

Audemars Piguet

Which Audemars Piguet to buy, a guide to Royal Oak and Code 11.59

All articles

Frequently asked questions

More Maison.

We will be happy to help you.