At a time when environmental awareness and sustainability are becoming increasingly important in all areas of life, the luxury watch industry is also facing the challenge of reducing its ecological footprint. At first glance, this seems paradoxical: isn't luxury by definition something exclusive, perhaps even wasteful? But a closer look reveals that mechanical watches, with their longevity, already embody a sustainable concept - and that the industry is increasingly finding ways to act in an even more environmentally conscious manner.
Luxury watches: Sustainable by nature?
The famous Patek Philippe advert has been suggesting for decades: "You never really own a Patek Philippe. You just keep it for the next generation." This slogan captures the essence of what characterises mechanical luxury watches - their exceptional longevity. A well-maintained Rolex, Audemars Piguet or Omega can easily last for generations and is often passed down as a family heirloom.
This inherent longevity already makes luxury watches comparatively sustainable products. Unlike smartphones, clothing or many other consumer goods, where regular new purchases are the rule, high-quality timepieces can remain functional for decades or even centuries if they are properly maintained. Nevertheless, there is considerable potential for improvement in production, the materials used and the supply chain.
Sustainable materials: innovation in steel, gold and bracelets
Recycled steel: The new standard
Steel is still the most common material for watch cases. Traditionally, watch manufacturers have exclusively sourced newly produced steel of the highest quality. But this practice is increasingly changing:
- Panerai introduced "eSteel", an alloy that consists of 95% recycled steel and is used in numerous models such as the Submersible eSteelᵀᴹ.
- IWC Schaffhausen has been using steel with a recycled content of 85% for years, making it one of the pioneers in the industry.
- For its Alpine Eagle collection, Chopard uses recycled steel from the Austrian company Voestalpine, which is working on CO₂-neutral steel production with its "Greentec Steel" initiative.
The Swiss company Panatere is even planning to install a solar furnace in La Chaux-de-Fonds for melting steel at temperatures above 2000 degrees - another step towards more sustainable material extraction.
Ethical gold: Fairmined and conflict-free
Gold is essential for the luxury watch industry, but its extraction is often associated with significant environmental and social problems. Several initiatives have been launched in this area:
- The Swiss Better Gold Association, founded in 2013, promotes ethical gold mining in small mines in South America. Brand manufacturers such as Cartier, Chopard, Audemars Piguet and Breitling are members and demonstrably source conflict-free gold that is extracted under better working conditions.
- Chopard was a pioneer with the introduction of the Fairmined seal for watches and jewellery, which guarantees not only ecological standards but also fair working conditions.
- Breitling has announced that it will only use traceable gold from 2025 - an important step towards greater transparency in the supply chain.
Alternative strap materials: Vegan and recycled options
A rethink is also taking place for the bracelets:
- IWC offers Timbertex and Miratex bracelets made from vegetable and mineral raw materials.
- Breitling, Ulysse Nardin and Panerai use recycled PET from the sea for their NATO straps.
- Cartier presented the Tank Must SolarBeat, a watch with a vegan strap.
- Oris co-operates with the Zurich label "Cervo Volante", which uses leather from regularly hunted deer whose skins would otherwise be burned.
- Mondaine not only offers vegan bracelets, but also watch cases made from vegan plastic based on castor oil.
The manufacturing processes: Energy efficiency and CO₂ reduction
In addition to the materials, the production processes also come into focus. Modern watch manufacturers invest in:
- Energy-efficient buildings: New buildings are constructed in accordance with the Minergie standard, such as at Panerai and IWC.
- More sustainable electroplating: The baths used for surface treatment are increasingly being recycled instead of disposed of.
- Reduced environmental impact: From machining operations to packaging, materials and processes are optimised.
Mondaine has been producing 100% CO₂-neutral since 2021, and IWC has been certified as CO₂-neutral since 2007. Since 2017, the brand has published an annual environmental report documenting its progress in terms of sustainability.
The packaging: The end of the luxury box?
A surprisingly large factor in the ecological footprint of luxury watches is the often lavish packaging. This is where several brands come in:
- Christopher Ward has been using compact slipcases made predominantly from biodegradable materials since 2020.
- Breitling offers watch boxes made from 100% recycled PET bottles.
- IWC, Oris and Breitling have made their boxes smaller and lighter in order to reduce transport volume.
A clever approach is to design the casket as a jewellery box or other usable object so that it doesn't end up in the bin but is reused.
Commitment to environmental protection: More than just marketing?
Many watch brands are financially committed to environmental protection projects:
- Since 1976, Rolex has presented theRolex Awards for Enterprise" to projects in the fields of environmental protection, science, medicine and social justice.
- Blancpain supports marine conservation with "Ocean Commitment".
- Oris supports more than ten initiatives and researchers in the environmental field.
- IWC has engaged the Brazilian model Gisele Bündchen as an environmental consultant.
Critics may object that such activities are partly greenwashing. Nevertheless, they make a positive contribution - especially if they are accompanied by concrete changes in the production chain.
The WWF rating: How do the luxury brands perform?
In 2023, the environmental organisation WWF evaluated the best-known luxury watch and jewellery brands in terms of their sustainability performance. Compared to a similar evaluation from 2018, the industry has made progress. Some brands have set themselves ambitious targets for reducing greenhouse gas emissions.
The brands that scored best were Pomellato, Tiffany, IWC, Boucheron, Cartier and Panerai. There is room for improvement, particularly in terms of transparency. Traditional brands such as Patek Philippe and Rolex in particular came bottom in this rating - a sign that some established luxury brands are still reluctant to communicate their sustainability efforts publicly.
Vintage watches: The most sustainable option
Despite all the efforts of the manufacturers, one truth remains: The most sustainable watch is the one that already exists. This is where the vintage market comes into play, which occupies a special place in the sustainable luxury watch industry.
Why vintage watches are more sustainable:
- No new resources: With vintage watches, no new raw materials are mined or processed - the watch already exists.
- Circular economy: Buying used timepieces encourages reuse and extends the life of existing products.
- High-quality restoration: Professional restoration and refurbishment by certified experts extends the life of classic models by decades.
- Retaining value: Vintage watches from Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet or Omega not only retain their value, but often increase it - an aspect of sustainability that makes both ecological and economic sense.
- Reduced transport costs: Local restoration and distribution avoid long transport routes for new products from global supply chains.
The role of specialised vintage retailers such as Time Boutique:
Specialised dealers such as Time Boutique are particularly valuable for collectors and watch enthusiasts. They offer:
- Authenticity guarantee: Expert examination of each watch for authenticity and originality.
- Professional refurbishment: Restoration by certified watchmakers with original spare parts.
- Sustainable added value: Local added value through expert knowledge and craftsmanship.
- Transparent provenance: Carefully researched provenance of each watch.
Buying a well-preserved or professionally restored vintage watch is therefore not only a decision in favour of a piece of watch history, but also for more sustainable consumption in the luxury segment.
The future of the sustainable luxury watch: between tradition and innovation
The watch industry faces the challenge of harmonising its centuries-old traditions with modern sustainability requirements. Several developments are emerging:
- Technological innovations: New materials and production processes are being developed, such as laboratory diamonds or solar-powered quartz movements.
- Transparency and traceability: Customers are increasingly demanding transparency about the origin of materials - from gold to precious stones and leather.
- Certifications and standards: Independent certifications such as Fairmined or CO₂ neutrality are becoming more important.
- Changing consumer behaviour: The appreciation for vintage watches is growing, as is the demand for demonstrably sustainable new models.
Conclusion: Sustainability as an opportunity for the luxury watch industry
The luxury watch industry is still at the beginning of its sustainability journey, but has a distinct advantage over many other consumer goods due to the inherent longevity of its products. The combination of traditional craftsmanship, technological innovation and a growing vintage market offers many opportunities for a more sustainable future.
As a responsible watch enthusiast, you have several options:
- Invest in high-quality vintage watches from specialist shops such as Time Boutique, which emphasise authentic restoration and originality.
- When buying new models, look out for brands with a proven commitment to sustainability, such as IWC, Panerai or Oris.
- Maintain your watches regularly with professional maintenance to maximise their lifespan.
The true sustainability of a luxury watch ultimately lies in its timelessness - both in design and functionality. A well-made and regularly maintained watch can last not just years but generations, epitomising what we mean by sustainability: a respectful use of resources that takes into account the needs of present and future generations alike.