The year 1976 marked a turning point in the history of luxury watches. While the quartz revolution shook the Swiss watch industry and the English master watchmaker George Daniels presented his pioneering Co-Axial escapement, Patek Philippe took a revolutionary step. With the introduction of the Nautilus, the renowned Geneva-based manufacturer presented its first true luxury sports watch - a model that would rewrite the definition of luxury and become one of the most sought-after watches in the world.
The unconventional birth of an icon
The birth of the Nautilus is framed by a now legendary anecdote. During a dinner in the restaurant of the Geneva hotel "Les Bergues", designer Gérald Genta observed a group of Patek Philippe managers at the neighbouring table. Inspired by the moment and the distinctive portholes of transatlantic ocean liners, he sketched the design that would later become the Nautilus on a napkin in just five minutes. This improvised drawing laid the foundation for one of the most revolutionary luxury watches of all time.
Genta's design broke with all conventions for luxury watches at the time:
- A massive 42 mm case (from "ear to ear") at a time when elegant watches were rarely larger than 36 mm
- A distinctive, rounded octagonal case with lateral "ears"
- An integrated steel bracelet design
- An industrial-looking design with a predominantly matt surface
- A characteristic blue fluted dial with horizontal embossed lines
The most provocative aspect, however, was the material: while luxury watches were traditionally made of precious metals such as gold or platinum, the Nautilus was made entirely of stainless steel. Patek Philippe nevertheless demanded a price equivalent to that of a gold watch - an unheard-of idea at the time. The brand's adverts proclaimed bluntly: "One of the most expensive watches in the world is made of steel."
Reference 3700/1A "Jumbo" - The birth of a legend
The first Nautilus, the Reference 3700/1A, was quickly nicknamed the "Jumbo" due to its enormous size for the time. With a case width of 42 mm and an impressively slim height of just 7.6 mm, it made an imposing appearance on the wrist.
The technical features of the original Nautilus included:
- A two-part case with a water resistance of 120 metres
- The ultra-thin automatic calibre 28-255 C (based on the Jaeger-LeCoultre calibre 920)
- A distinctive fluted blue dial with each horizontal groove engraved by hand
- A distinctive integrated bracelet design with H-links and rounded rectangular centre links
The 3700 was initially only produced in steel, followed later by versions in a steel/gold combination and pure yellow gold. Extremely rare are the only 11 known white gold examples and the two unique platinum versions.
Interestingly, the Nautilus was not initially a commercial success. At a time when the watch industry was shaken by the quartz revolution, the market was not yet ready for such a revolutionary luxury steel sports watch. What is now considered a visionary masterpiece was viewed sceptically by many watch enthusiasts at the time.
The evolution of an icon: key models in the history of Nautilus
The mid-size Nautilus: Reference 3800 (1981-2006)
To boost the initially sluggish sales figures, Patek Philippe introduced the medium-sized Reference 3800 in 1981. With a reduced case diameter of 37.5 mm and the new in-house calibre 335 SC with central seconds, it appealed to a wider audience. The 3800 was offered in various metal versions, including rose gold, and with different dial colours such as white, anthracite and black.
The Nautilus with power reserve indicator: Reference 3710 (1998-2006)
After 17 years of 3800 production, Patek Philippe presented the reference 3710 in 1998 - the first Nautilus with an additional complication besides the date. The watch returned to the original "jumbo" case size and featured a power reserve indicator at 12 o'clock. The matt black dial with applied Roman numerals and a railway minute scale was clearly different from the classic fluted Nautilus dial.
The modern icon: Reference 5711 (2006-2021)
To mark the 30th anniversary of the Nautilus in 2006, Patek Philippe introduced the reference 5711 - the model that would later become the hottest collector's item in the watch world. The 5711 refined the original design with a slightly larger case (42.5 mm from ear to ear), rounded edges and a blue dial with a colour gradient.
Technically, the 5711 returned to a three-part case construction with a sapphire crystal back. Various calibres were used during its production period, starting with the 315 S C, followed by the improved 324 SC and finally the 26-330 SC with stop seconds.
During its 15 years of production, the 5711 was produced in various metals, including steel, all three gold colours and platinum. Experimental dial colours such as white, brown, grey, green and finally the famous Tiffany blue were also introduced.
The announcement of the model's discontinuation in 2021 triggered unprecedented demand, leading to astronomical prices on the secondary market. A sealed example with a green dial realised 416,000 euros at auction, while the last edition with a Tiffany blue dial sold for the incredible price of 6.5 million US dollars.
The complex Nautilus models: More than just a sports watch
Over the years, Patek Philippe has expanded the Nautilus collection with various complications that demonstrate the versatility of this iconic design:
The Nautilus with moon phase: Reference 5712 (2006-today)
The 5712 combines date display, power reserve and moon phases in an asymmetrical dial layout. Powered by the elegant micro-rotor calibre 240 PS IRM C LU, whose slim design is made possible by the 22k gold micro-rotor, this reference is available in steel, rose gold and white gold.
The Nautilus chronograph: Reference 5980 (2006-present)
The 5980 marked not only the first Nautilus chronograph, but also Patek's first ever automatic chronograph. Its slim, vertical clutch calibre 28-520 C has a combined minute and hour counter at 6 o'clock and a flyback function.
The Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph: Reference 5990 (2014-present)
The 5990 masterfully combines a flyback chronograph with a dual time zone function and analogue date. The time zone pushers have been skilfully integrated into the "ear" at 9 o'clock, while the chronograph pushers have been moved closer to the crown - a brilliant integration of complex functions without compromising the iconic Nautilus silhouette.
Die Nautilus Perpetual Calendar: Reference 5740 (2018-present)
As a crowning glory, Patek Philippe added its most prestigious complication to the Nautilus family in 2018 - the perpetual calendar. The 5740G combines the elegant micro-rotor calibre 240 with a traditional perpetual calendar mechanism in a remarkably slim case measuring just 8.42 mm in height, making it the thinnest Patek Philippe perpetual calendar watch.
The Nautilus phenomenon: Why is it so popular?
The unprecedented demand for the Nautilus, especially the reference 5711 in steel, has various reasons:
- Revolutionary design: The Nautilus was one of the first luxury watches to define the concept of the "luxury sports watch". Its timeless design remains modern and relevant even after almost 50 years.
- Limited production: Patek Philippe produces watches in strictly limited quantities. It is estimated that only around 3,000 to 4,000 Nautilus of all variants were produced each year.
- Craftsmanship: Every Nautilus epitomises the uncompromising quality and craftsmanship for which Patek Philippe is famous.
- Investment value: The constant increase in value of the Nautilus, especially the vintage models, has made it a sought-after investment.
- Cultural phenomenon: The Nautilus has achieved a legendary status in popular culture, collectors' circles and the financial world that goes beyond the mere craft of watchmaking.
The discontinuation of reference 5711 in 2021 has only reinforced the myth. Thierry Stern, President of Patek Philippe, explained that he did not want the brand to be dominated by a single model - a wise decision from a strategic point of view, but one that led to unprecedented waiting lists and prices on the secondary market.
The legacy and future of Nautilus
The Nautilus has travelled an extraordinary path in its almost 50-year history - from experimental outsider to the ultimate trophy watch. Its influence on the watch industry is undeniable. Together with the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, it has created an entirely new category of luxury watches, proving that true luxury is not in the material, but in the design, craftsmanship and timeless elegance.
After the discontinuation of the 5711, the exciting question remains: What is Patek Philippe planning as a successor to the legendary steel Nautilus? Will it be an evolutionary development or a revolutionary reinterpretation? Watch enthusiasts and collectors worldwide are waiting with bated breath.
Conclusion: More than a watch - a cultural phenomenon
The Patek Philippe Nautilus is more than just a luxury watch - it is a cultural phenomenon that has rewritten the definition of luxury. From its controversial introduction as a steel watch at the price of a gold watch to its current position as one of the most coveted watches in the world, the Nautilus embodies a perfect blend of rebellious spirit and timeless elegance.
The story of the Nautilus is an impressive example of how a bold vision can buck the prevailing trend and become the epitome of luxury and status. In a world where luxury is often equated with opulence and extravagance, the Nautilus, with its clean, industrial-inspired design, represents a more subtle, confident approach - a philosophy that is more relevant than ever in today's world.
The Nautilus has proven that true icons are not created overnight, but mature and grow in importance over decades. Its legacy as one of the most influential watch designs of all time is assured, and its story will undoubtedly include many more chapters.